The Flavors of My Border Town Home

Nogales, Arizona, is a small and busy city. Following the Gadsden Purchase in 1853, the northern part of Nogales became part of the United States of America. The southern part became part of Mexican state of Sonora. Today, a 15-foot high steel wall and a multimillion-dollar border-crossing complex physically separate Ambos Nogales (Both Nogales), but steel and concrete cannot change the influence these two communities have had on each other.

Growing up in this border town meant walking to Sonora for street tacos, then coming home to celebrate a classmate’s quinceñera where the DJ spun American pop music and Mexican cumbias. The melding of these two cultures, two languages and the foods of Northern Mexico and Western America make Nogales a special place I still call home.

My mom, grandmothers and aunts were all great cooks. Their confidence and creativity in the kitchen made an impression on me at a young age because they cooked for their families daily using fresh, whole food ingredients they’d find in our small neighborhood markets or "across the line" in Nogales, Mexico. Simple cooking methods and fresh ingredients were the hallmark to all the meals created in their small, bustling kitchens.

Foods and Flavors of Northern Mexico
If you traveled across the U.S.-Mexico border region (la frontera), you'd find that not all Mexican food tastes the same. From the tip of Texas to the coast of California, the flavor and flair of border town foods differ based on the methods of preparation and the local ingredients. The style of cooking in Northern Mexico (estilo norteño), specifically Sonora, is rooted in its ranching culture. Indigenous foods were traditionally cooked over a wood fire. Centuries ago, Europeans found this semi-arid desert region ideal for cattle grazing and growing wheat, thus this area is best known for its beef, goat and pork dishes, and for its large, thin flour tortillas.

An ancient method of salting and drying beef and pork is still used by locals, making the area well known for its machaca, a dried meat which is also called carne seca. My favorite ways to eat machaca are with eggs and sauteed tomato, or wrapped in a tortilla with fresh salsa and guacamole.  It’s traditionally cooked with roasted poblano and green chili peppers giving it a nice smoky flavor. Lighting-up charcoal or chopped Mesquite wood to make carne asada (grilled meat) is a common backyard activity in my hometown. It’s a classic way to cook beef, pork and tripas (small intestines of farm animals), which are typically served in a tortilla with salsa and guacamole.

Although meat is a major source of dietary protein in this region, refried and whole cooked pinto beans are a traditional non-animal protein source. Bacon fat or lard are often used to flavor the beans, but modern recipes tend to call for vegetable oil instead. Corn, including the corn tortilla, is a protein-containing grain commonly found in border-cuisine; although native to Central Mexico, corn is eaten throughout the country. Sonoran style “street” corn (elote) is another of my favorites. Cobs are buttered and seasoned with chili powder, then wrapped in foil and grilled. Once cooked, lime juice is squeezed over the top and sprinkled with queso fresco (fresh cheese, similar to feta cheese).

Mexican rice – see the recipe below – cooked with tomatoes and seasonings is a classic side dish that combines a refined starch with whole, fresh vegetables and herbs. Some people add corn or peas to their rice, but I keep mine simple with onion, tomato and garlic. Mexican rice was one of the first dishes my mom taught me to cook and it’s still one of my favorite foods from home.

But it's not all protein and grains. Fruits and vegetables like avocado, quince (membrillo), squash (calabacita—ingredients are pictured at right and you can scroll down for the recipe) and various types of chili and bell peppers, are classic foods found in Sonoran cooking. The quince tree in my parent’s backyard has produced fruit since I was a child, and I still love eating them sliced with a little bit or salt or Tajin fruit seasoning and fresh key lime juice. Key limes along with tomato, garlic and onion are staple ingredients in both raw and cooked dishes. Herbs and spices commonly used include the earthy and savory flavors of cilantro (coriander), Mexican oregano, cinnamon (canela) and tamarind (tamarindo).

Even though I haven't learned how to make all of my favorite dishes from home, I'm slowly building my collection of recipes that take me back to my parent's small house in Nogales. I may not be able to bring Mom up to Tucson to cook for me, but I can bring the flavors of by border town home into my own kitchen and prepare meals the way she did—with a few of my own twists! The most important thing I feel I can do is continue honoring the tradition of cooking foods native to my culture and teach my children to do the same.
 

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Mexican Rice

Recipe by Christy Wilson, RD

Serves 6

Even though my mom calls it Spanish rice, I prefer to call mine Mexican Rice because the ingredients and flavors are native to those of Northern Mexico. Toasting long grain white rice in a bit of canola oil before steaming it adds a mild smoky flavor to the earthy seasonings of cumin and Mexican oregano.

Ingredients
1 cup long grain white rice
1 tbsp canola oil
2 cups water
1 cube of low sodium chicken bouillon
¼ – ½ teaspoon Sazón Goya: Culantro y Achiote (found in Hispanic or ethnic food section. If unavailable, use regular season salt)
1/3 cup diced fresh tomato (or use petite diced canned tomato)
1 garlic clove, diced and smashed
¼ cup diced onion
½ cup tomato sauce
¼ – ½ tsp ground cumin
¼ – ½ tsp whole Mexican oregano
Salt and pepper to taste
¼ cup chopped cilantro

Directions

1. In a saucepan, heat water with added bouillon and Sazón.
2. While waiting for the seasoned water to boil, heat canola oil in a separate saucepan over high heat. Add rice to pan and toast until aromatic.
3. Add diced tomato, garlic and onion to the toasted rice and mix to combine. Sauté ingredients for a few minutes. (Can add a little bit of cilantro here but save the majority to add to the fully cooked rice.)
4. Add tomato sauce to the rice and mix to combine ingredients.
5. Add boiling seasoned water to the rice mixture. Add cumin and smashed whole oregano and stir. At this point, taste the broth and adjust seasonings to your preference.
6. Lower flame and cover pan. Allow the rice to cook for 15 minutes.
7. Fluff cooked rice. Add fresh cilantro and fresh, diced tomato for added color and flavor.

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Calabacitas

Recipe by Christy Wilson, RD

Serves 6

Calabacitas is a classic, colorful Southwest dish that often accompanies grilled meat. Using all fresh or a mix of fresh and frozen vegetables, calabacitas can be prepared within 20 minutes and delivers all the flavors of Sonoran-style cooking. I like my zucchini sliced thin (and it cooks faster this way), but keep slices thicker if you prefer a chunkier-style dish.

Ingredients
2 tsp canola oil
1 cup sliced onion
1 tbsp garlic clove (or 1 large clove), diced and smashed
2-3 medium zucchini (about 2 cups), sliced about ¼ inch thick
1/3 cup frozen or fresh corn kernels
½ – 1 tsp Mexican oregano
½ – 1 tsp group cumin
Salt and pepper, to taste
¼ – ½ cup low sodium chicken broth
¼ cup fresh cilantro, chopped
½ – 1/3 cup shredded mixed Mexican blended cheese or crumble fresh Mexican cheese (queso fresco or Panela) instead.

Directions

1. In a large pan over medium heat, heat oil and add sliced onion and garlic. Cook until aromatic.
2. Add corn to the pan and cook until slightly brown and “toasty,” about 5 minutes.
3. Add zucchini and season with oregano, cumin and a dash of salt and pepper (to taste). Stir to combine ingredients.
4. Deglaze pan with chicken broth (start by using ¼ cup and add more if desired) and cook zucchini for about 10 minutes.
5. Once cooked, turn off heat and top zucchini with cheese and fresh cilantro. Cover pan to allow cheese to melt.

Note
Canned or fresh roasted mild green chili and diced jalapeño can be added to this dish for extra flavor and heat.